Geranium/Insanium



What the f’ is going on here? 4 and a half hours later and I had been through a 17 course tasting menu at Geranium.  The Paul Bocuse d’Or winning, Rasmus Kofoed had somehow connected to my sensory history and brought it back to life; at least fleetingly with the use of his culinary prowess.  A modern day shaman of new nordic food mysticisms.

Here are some of the things he conjured up: orange carrot balls that were sweet as a sherberty lollipop that I used to get at a roadside cafe; stinky cabbage flowers that brought me back to sneaking across farmers field in the middle of the night; apple and verbena, gel and foam that tasted like the  apple pop I used to drink from the soda machine at a paintball hall I used to frequent when I was a tearaway; white chocolate hid beneath a layer of green chervil slime. You remember the stuff you used to get at the toy store(circa 1992)? Looks the same, similar texture, but now you can now finally eat it and not get a belly ache.

Eat here, and respect is given to all manor of ingredients. Whereas in your regular dining experience it is protein , protein, protein. Here there is a dish, where the onion is king.  Add a little a hay cheese, and your all good. I had had razor clams that were not razor clams; king crab leg, that when you squeezed it, out came the best tasting salted cream cheese ever; pork neck with the skin of a jerusalem artichoke resting on-top – resembling pork crackling.

The meal reflected life experiences. Eating is all about your senses, and as your memory becomes hazy, as the whim of just being thrilled, dies out. Your wizened soul, you have become an unapologetically sceptical old  tool. You need the senses to be brought back to life. The engagement of more than one or two the taste memory, the olfactory, the eyes. You form a bond, you react, you associate and you catergorise. Sometimes you play with your food. The knowledge has been built up. This type of dining is one that you have been preparing for, if even subconsciously. Nostalgia be tripping. This is what we call in the unbroken. I don’t have profound lick of nostalgia anymore. But a longing for brief interludes of sehnsucht. The dinner brings this about. Even speaking of it now can burst the bubble. Everything is brief, look back and you won’t see it anymore. Try to draw something from your dream, and you realise you can’t .

Here, I found a key to things that are not there anymore.
“G.N.”

Restaurant Geranium
Per Henrik Lings Allé 4, 8.
2100 Copenhagen Ø
Denmark
Web: http://www.geranium.dk/#/en/
Tel: +45 69 96 00 20

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Categories: Travel

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One Comment on “Geranium/Insanium”

  1. October 26, 2011 at 4:59 pm #

    nice

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